Musings on Midway

Hōlanikū - A Return to Pō

April 30th, 2017 – Kure. Hōlanikū.

IMG_4719 2The strong winds from the early week fade away and I awake to our first still morning in what feels like weeks. Itʻs Sunday, and I feel well rested. Slowly but surely, I am arriving. We have been on the island for five weeks and even so the transition from the normalities of my life back in Hilo, to the rawness of this faraway seabird colony, does not happen overnight. In fact, it is not even a matter of days. There is a kind of letting go process that must occur, and like any release, grieving is involved.


Branching Waters

Hōlanikū - A Return to Pō

IMG_4700Wednesday, March 22, 2017
Day 5 on the Kahana
0330- sail past Lisianski, Ka Poʻo.

I wake up late, sleeping in my cabin as it rained all last night. As we approach Midway, our Kure crew sits down to work on some preliminary items before reaching our final destination. Today we spent the morning putting in all our data-collecting templates for our Field Books.


Hōlanikū - A Return to Pō

Tuesday, March 21st, 2017
Day 4 on the Kahana

E ala, e ala, e ala, e ala
E Hīkāpōkuakini, e ala, e ala
E Hikāpōkuamano, e ala, e ala
E ke akua, e ke alo, e ala, e ala
E ikauwilanuimākēhāi kalani
E ala, e ala!
[Nathaniel B. Emerson 12]

Awake, rise and come to consciousness
To you, Tittering-in-Profound-Awareness, awake
To you, Spreading-of-Ancestral-Influence, rise forth
To you, the goddess of timelessness, return to the present,
A call to the Electricity-swooshing-in-the-Heavens,
Jolt her back to life!
[Taupōuri Tangarō’s translation]

An Out of Order Introduction

Hōlanikū - A Return to Pō

Hōlanikū – Week 2

IMG_5443The strong and cold winds from the north have returned, bringing a light rain that scatters with each gust. The birds perk up as the force of wind fuels their movement and freedom in the open sky. I had planned to sleep in today after a long week, but instead, I woke up early and slow like the sun as it sluggishly rose illuminating layers of clouds warming the sky one by one.